Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
